The block is now ready to have the main bearing caps and straps installed. Any damaged or stripped bolt holes are repaired. Main Bearing Caps and Straps Once the walls pass inspection, we tap the threads on all of the bolt holes in the block. This becomes obvious when you see the main caps with the oil feed hole facing you. Make sure the oil feed holes are facing the crankshaft. To install the cam bearings, start at the rear and work forward. Something to keep in mind is that the thinner the walls are, the harder it is to keep cool. In fact, my (Myron’s) personal 1954 Chevy Sedan Delivery is powered by a 409-ci 548-hp LT1 with a 4.100-inch bore. We have built several LT-based engines at 4.100 inches (.100-inch oversize). 060-inch oversize for a normally aspirated application. 030-inch, we sonic- check all the cylinder bores for wall thickness. If we are going to overbore the cylinders more than. Now it is ready to be checked for any cracks. We use a method that bakes the block like cleaning an oven, and then it is shot blasted. The block must be cleaned before you begin. When starting to plan your project, try your best to get steel caps and straps, have the deck heights checked and corrected, and ensure the lifter bores are all measured (once in awhile you find one that is scuffed up). The only LT block options are whether you have two- or four-bolt main bearing caps. For this book, we built a 355-ci engine that is almost as powerful as a 383-ci version, for a lot less money. The most popular sizes are 355 to 383 ci. The smart thing to do is to build an LT-based engine that is capable of driving to the track, racing for the day, and then driving home. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link: SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post on Facebook / Twitter / Google+ or any automotive Forums or blogs you read.
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